"For Professional Use"
Ok?, So, What the heck does that mean?,
And, how does one become a
Plastaweld professional anyway?

Well, technically, professionally just means you earn money for doing it, but for our purposes, it means, you are willing to take the time to learn how to do it properly. After all, most of us have paid for something that wasn't done right.

You will find that Plastawelding is easy and will give incredible results if you pay attention to the instructions, and the tips at the end of this page. However, if you just jump in and go for it, your results will be marginal, and anything but professional.

So, lets see how it's done (professionally).

For our Demonstration I have cut two pieces of 1/8" Polycarbonate
3-1/2" x 1-1/8". I have positioned them in the shape of a "T" and held them in place with two magnets. I am working on a piece of sheet steel to facilitate the use of the magnets. you may use whatever method necessary to position your plastic.






























































































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The first step is to prime the surface to be welded with the Plastaweld liquid, using a small paint brush. This will soften & prepare the plastic.
 














 
Now, there are 2 methods for applying the Plastaweld. First we will look at the hollow needle method. I am using a hypodermic needle here, the sign industry also uses small plastic bottles with hollow needles on top. either one works great.
in the photo to the right I am  applying the powder to the weld joint. It can be helpful to push the powder into the joint after application using a pop sickle stick, razor blade or other suitable tool.
Below, I am using another needle to saturate the powder with the liquid. You want the powder fully saturated, but not washed away. Let the weld cure until hard. This will take 5-20 minutes depending on temperature.


When the weld is fully hardened, you may handle the piece. In order to test the weld strength, I drilled two holes in the polycarbonate and inserted turnbuckles. I then slid the piece into my garage door rail. I attached a  chain and a 5 gallon bucket to the turnbuckles. I then slowly filled the bucket with bolts watching for the point of failure so I could weigh the bucket and document how much weight would cause a failure at the weld. the bucket when full weighed 75 pounds, but the weld did not fail. I then removed the bucket and suspended myself from the chain. Still no failure.
I weighed in at 170 pounds 

Tips For Successful plastawelding




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The Second application method is the mix method.
Shown to the right, I pour a small quantity of powder into a paper cup.
I then add enough liquid to over saturate the powder. if you add to much liquid, you can  add powder to thicken the liquid, or if it is too thick to work with, add more liquid.
Later I will determine a way to stress the part to the point of failure and post the results.

Perhaps the engine test, but I don't think the garage rail can stand it.

That speaks pretty well for the Plastaweld.
Mix with disposable tool and (after priming) apply to joint with rubber gloved finger or other suitable tool.